1996. Just before dawn. A Japanese fishing boat ploughs
south through the rolling waves of the central pacific, her huge engine
ceaseless. The autopilot is on and, in the bridge, the man on night watch
snoozes peacefully. Below deck in the
salon, between empty bowls and chopsticks, the engineer and cook drink brandy
and play cards. Two bug-eyed, pickled seahorses silently watch them through
yellowing jars.
The radio man lies in
his bunk, an SSB radio and related bank of equipment giving off low static next
to him. He is frustrating himself in his attempt to write a meaningful letter
to his fiancé back home. He looks again at the beautiful calligraphy she gave
him before he left, the one taped with pride to the end of his bunk, and
redoubles his efforts. The rest of the ten man crew are asleep.
And then, out of nowhere, a huge jolt jars the
superstructure of the ship, followed by the sickening whine of metal scraping
on rock. Everyone is awake and alert in an instant, and everyone knows what has
happened: the boat has hit a reef. Alarms go off willy-nilly. The captain and
his first mate are on the bridge within a minute, both in their pants, to find
the watchman, eyes the size of golfballs, throwing the boat into full reverse.
There is general panic and anger. The boat has stopped moving. The captain is
white with both rage and the knowledge of a thousand implications crowding in
on him. Liver spots showing on his skinny torso, all too human, he slaps the
watchman hard across the face and then, some of his fury dissipated, looks out
of the windows and takes a deep breath. In the smudge of dawn he can pick out a
couple of islands to his right, and one on his left, each no more than 200
metres away. Silloettes of palm trees reclining in the still air, not giving a
shit.
This must be an atoll, with coral running just under the surface between the islands. He tries reversing the propellers again, but the ship is stuck fast. It is high tide, and the Mai Maru is not going anywhere.
No one died. It took 18 hours for the nearest fishing boat
to show up and take them aboard, offering them makeshift beds and a different
brand of ramen. This boat had its own fishing quotas to hit though, and the Mai
Maru’s crew were stuck on there, politely ignored by this ship’s crew, for two
weeks whilst the long fishing lines stretched for kilometres behind the boat,
snaring tuna, mai mai, shark, dolphin, all gutted, packed and frozen in the
hold. The radioman wasn’t sure which period of waiting had been worse. Those
first 18 hours had themselves felt like two weeks: an initial freak out that
the boat would sink and they would be truly Robinson Crusoe’d. The subsequent
the relief as the boat held firm fading to a quiet desolation as they tottered
on the reef like a giant whale corpse, the low tide exposing the unmoving coral
below them, the high tide scratching the boat millimetres along the reef with
each pounding wave, hard coral peeling the steel hull like a can opener on a
tin of beans.
The mood had been deadly. The watchman, who after coarse
interrogation admitted to being asleep when he should have been not crashing
into reefs, was entirely shunned and didn’t leave his cabin. The captain
remained on the bridge, the flawlessly blue sky and breathtaking beauty of the
place only sharpening his misery, knowing his career was over. Knowing that
this accident, rather than the previous thirty years of impeccable seamenship,
would define his reputation and his legacy. The engineer and cook got back down
to their cards and brandy, completely ignoring the gravity of the situation, or
perhaps revelling in it, putting down all the money that they weren’t going to
get paid on the table; focused on the present.
The radioman, red eyed, sent hourly status reports to the
fleet’s head office in Kyoto and imagined the fevered activity behind the curt,
blandly intoned replies he received. He wondered if anyone has told his family
what is going on, or if they are keeping the whole disaster a secret from
family and shareholders alike. He wonders if he will be treated as a hero for
coping so well under pressure, or a failure for being part of the whole debacle
in the first place. Later, on the fishing-boat-cum-rescue-ship, he realised he
had left his fiance’s calligraphy on the cabin wall. Damn. She would be hurt
unless he came up with a good excuse. Perhaps he could say he left it there to
provide a flash of beauty, of human brilliance, among the rust and the waves
and the wet bedding. Yes, he smiled to himself, that is suitably poetic.
Someone might even find it one day. She digs that kind of cosmic stuff.
___
Twenty years later and the ship sits like a nautical Angel
of the North, burnt copper, visible on the horizon, a rusty magnet of intrigue.
We anchored in the lagoon and scaled the side with grappling hook and knotted
rope, the ultimate boy scout fantasy, poking around, every salt-preserved map
and smashed up cabin became a window into a thousand possible stories.
Prizes for the best translation...
- Thanks to crewmate Michael for the amazing photos. His website is www.nothingunknown.com
Prizes for the best translation...
- Thanks to crewmate Michael for the amazing photos. His website is www.nothingunknown.com
3 comments:
Dash of Orwell here
Dash of Orwell here
<3 this so much
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